Hello out there to all the beautiful sewists! I’m currently drinking a cup of hot cocoa as I sit and write this in my local coffee shop. It’s giving me all the Christmas feels since the town square is decorated in lights and my ever-growing Christmas “to-make” list is dominating my thoughts right now. How is Christmas less than 10 days away?!? These are the moments where I’ve come to realize that no matter how much I deny it, I, Courtney Jean, am a severe procrastinator. I like to think that my job as an event coordinator, which is highly organized and scheduled, would bleed over to my personal life. Unfortunately, it. does. not.
But I am here to write about the fit adjustments for the Waterfall Raglan by Chalk & Notch. Towards the end I will even walk you through how to have a ruffle on the outside. Now, I own most of the Chalk & Notch patterns but this is the one that I can’t stop making. It’s pretty much my go-to everyday piece in my wardrobe. I’ve made five. FIVE, people!!! I still have plans for about three more!! (Yes, I understand this is an obsession.) I don’t consider myself short, but all the rest of the people in my life do. However, I am very short waisted, so I always felt like the ruffle would just hit my in the wrong spot for the drape to be flattering. I’ve finally perfected the fit for my short waist and I am here to share with all those dealing with the same struggle. 🙂
After you print and assemble the pattern, you will want to cut the blouse at the “shorten/lengthen” line.
I bring the short edge of the bottom piece one inch below the bottom edge of the top.
After taping, trim the right edge of any extra paper. And that’s how EASY it is to get the perfect fit for you’re short waist! 🙂
For the cheetah print blouse I made, I took a poll on IG because I couldn’t decide on using the “correct” side of the fabric or the “wrong” side of the fabric. I ended up using the “wrong” side, but is it really wrong? It opened up a whole new world that there might something magical on the other side of what would be the “norm”. The cheetah print was OUT. OF. MY COMFORT. ZONE. I typically stick to solids in my wardrobe or very understated patterns like strips. And that’s about it. So this is a little bit of some everyday #sewfrosting for me.
The fabric was a remnant piece I found at my local fabric store, so I’m not positive on the type. It’s some sort of rayon-like material with a liiittttle bit of stretch. Emphasis on the little. I knew I could get away with this pattern though because of the natural ease it has. For the cheetah blouse I added 3 inches to the top of the ruffle to give it some length. Besides my “short-girl” modification that would be the only adjustment I made to it.
For my green raglan, I left the ruffle length alone and used the suggested size. I also used my “short-girl” adjustment, too. I’ll give you a quick walk-through of how I added the ruffle to the outside. (PLEASE ignore the cat hair in this photo. I had just got done holding him.)
1.) You will want to the sew the blouse completely BEFORE adding the ruffle. Typically the first step is adding the ruffle to the front & back piece, but you will sew the sleeves on first & then sew the sides.
2.) You will sew the ruffle sides together before gathering.
3.) Sew the gathers like instructions, but leave a little extra space between the two stay stitches. I always start on a side seam.
4.) Once gathered, you will attach the ruffle to the OUTSIDE of the blouse and top stitch in-between the two gather stitches. I typically start my stitch on one of the side seams.
5.) Once you have top stitched the ruffle to the bodice, tie off the ends on the side. DONE. 🙂
I left the hem on my green raglan unhemmed because it was a beautiful bamboo jersey that will not fray. Most knits are able to do this. That’s also pretty trendy for blouses like this. For my cheetah one, I did hem it.
I hope these tips & tricks help you for your future sewing! Tag me in your posts on IG if you make one so I can see them! Happy Sewing!